![]() ![]() I really like HSS tools, that lathe was made for them, and much less power is needed, but if you I have got a few of those small BangGood indxedible carbide types that Doubleboost uses and they have their uses although the lathe works harder with them. Then tighten the gibs to completely lock the top slide and ignore it for most work, except taper turning, contra to popular belief, you don't even need it for threading.Īdjust the cross slide gibs quite snugly and use really sharp HSS tooling, avoid those cheap carbide tools like the plague, they really aren't good for an Atlas at all.Īvoid parting off until you have some experience, it's just too stressful for a beginner with a light lathe, just use a hacksaw and re-face the cut end. The stop could and has been adapted to other lathes by re-designing the clamp and. It clamps to the ways and provides a hard stop to locate the carriage for accurate machining of shoulders and grooves. This is a micrometer carriage stop that I designed and built for my dad’s Atlas lathe. ![]() The thing that will cause you most trouble with an Atlas is the relatively flexible the top slide (compound), notice I don't normally use one, first thing I would do is move the tool post from where it is in your pic to the other end of the T slot, then wind the slide right back, this combined with short tool stick out, will reduce overhang and flexing to the minimum. Micrometer Carriage Stop Tom T20:11:22-05:00. Insomnia, so here's a few pointers that might help you get started easier. ![]()
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